Well, we weathered an exciting 2009 harvest here in Sonoma County. Actually, it seemed like TWO different harvests. Now that all the wines are safely hibernating for the winter, I have a little time to reflect on the past harvest, plan bottling and taste through the cellar for potential.
In August 2009 I met with Joe Nugent, a Russian River Valley pinot noir grower, to talk about sourcing his grapes. I had already spoken with the regulars; Andolsen, Pedroni, Ramazotti - growers I’ve worked with in the past - and continued contracts with them. But, I hadn’t set anything in stone for pinot. Waiting for the right opportunity to come along, I finally set up a deal to pick five tons each from two different Dijon clone pinot blocks from Nugent Vineyard. Preliminary tasting of these two pinot clones have concluded a strong pinot vintage with amazing varietal characteristics ranging from strawberry and cherry to blueberry flavors. Although spices are still working themselves into the structure, I am already getting a hint of allspice, mace and subtle oak aromas. This is the beginning of what promises to be an outstanding pinot noir.
Another standout is the Lisa’s Vineyard cabernet sauvignon from Knights Valley, Sonoma County. We have not released a Lisa’s cab, yet, but the 2007 is in queue to bottle and by far one of the best cabs I’ve crafted. The plan is to have the ‘07 bottled by Barrel Tasting for the futures that were bought. Like the ’07, the ‘09 has amazing structure: dark intense fruit concentration of cassis, currant and blueberry mixed with a hint of exotic spices and oak. What interests me most about this wine is how the flavors and textures build as I taste it. It starts off big and continues to develop complexity throughout the long finish and lingers pleasantly in my mouth.
Everything was going along well until we got the news that rain was on it’s way. So much fruit was still hanging, because of the cool summer, that growers and winemakers began scrambling to pick. We were sitting pretty until I got an interesting call from my mom. They had not sold their grapes (here we go, 2005 all over again)! Time to rescue 90 tons of nine different varietals in the vineyard I grew up tromping though; the vineyard I know call “The Candy Shop”. We pulled a crew together, rented a forklift and some tractors, and picked amazing grapes. Riesling, which we often tap from the tank to pair with lunch, should be ready to bottle in March. Merlot, which always seems to find a perfect balance before we pick it, and syrah, that I crushed for a rouge (not rose). We even got more viognier, a touch of zin and petite sirah! Then, the rain came and drenched us for three days. The vineyards were not approachable for almost three weeks after!
Begin... “The Second Harvest”! A lot of grapes just could not take that much rain. In the Candy Shop we lost some syrah, the cab franc, malbec and petite verdot. Other vineyards had similar losses. The remarkable Andolsen Top Block, however, forged through. Perched high upon the West Dry Creek Ridge, winds would sweep through and dry out the vine’s canopy and grapes with the same aggression as a wind tunnel! I have not tasted the ‘09 Andolsen since fermentation but I know that the magic was there. This will typically be a three year voyage before I have any idea what the outcome is going to be: rascally mountain fruit!
Overall, I think the 2009 vintage was extremely strong! While I am preparing to bottle many of the 2007 wines, I can’t help but compare these two harvests (save the ‘09 rains, of course)!
Cheers!
Scott